It often surprises us when we see well trained bird dogs in action. Obeying the commands of their owners, bird dogs do their work in an exemplary manner. We often wonder how bird dog training can produce such results, getting the dogs to be so cooperative without the use of shock collars.
If you put a lot of work in it, it can be done.
There are a number of dog breeds that are well suited for becoming great bird dogs. A good start would be teaching them to obey your commands. Before dogs can understand what people are telling them, they need to learn the language first. In this basic variant of training, dogs need to understand the three main commands: “come!”, “whoa!” and “heel!”. These commands need to be mastered by the owner as well.
The “Whoa!” Command
The “whoa!” command is the first thing bird dogs need to learn. By learning this, they can understand when they’re being told to stop, without moving again unless he’s being ordered to do it. Obeying this command shows that the dog respects his master and that he is obedient. If you want to test whether a dog is completely obedient, you should try giving the “whoa!” order at larger distances. This way you’re sure that he will listen to you even when the command is not enforced by the immediate presence of the master.
You can also use the “whoa!” command to control dogs that get out of hand, trying to flush a bird on their own or play with it. If their master wants the dog to stop what he’s doing, he can use this command to make him stop. Ideally, the command and the obedience should be rewarded by the master.
The “Come!” Command
The purpose of the “come!” command is to make the dog come to the owner when they hear it. It’s quite easy to use this command. In the case of a bird dog, it’s much easier to make him come to you with the thing he retrieved, if he understands this command. A lot of dogs are more independent and go do their own thing. Using the “come!” command you can keep him at a good distance from you.
The “Heel!” Command
When you want to make sure that your dog will walk by your side, and not wander away, the “heel!” command can be used to get this effect. You can teach him an additional command, like “go” or “okay” to let him know that he is released, and can return to hunting with you.
Whenever the dog performed well, never fail to give him a tap, a treat or a praise to acknowledge his performance. Fine dogs are born with the instinct to please their owners. If you can let your dog see that he is pleasing you with his performance and you want him to repeat it, the best thing you can do is to reward him. Overtime, he will learn to repeat the same desirable action so long as you allow him to.
Each time the dog does what you ask of him, make sure you reward him either with a treat, a tap or a praise, to let him know that he did well. The best dogs are those that have an instinct when it comes to pleasing their masters. You should let the dog know that you are pleased with what he’s doing, and that he should do the same in the future. The best way you can let him know is by rewarding him.
Doing bird dog training is quite hard. If it was easy, you would see a lot more bird dogs around. Still, if you want to make a good bird hunter out of your dog, make sure you invest the patience and the time needed to teach him the three commands that stand at the basis of bird dog training. The use of a electronic dog collar can help if used properly and with care. I prefer the DT Systems brand of collars.
by Sam Nichols
Subscribe to this blog's RSS feed
Dog collars come in a variety of materials, colors, styles and even functions. There’s the obedience or choke collar, bark collars, dog training collars, flea collars, and a whole array of just good old plain pooch collars. So which one do you choose? If you are taking your pooch to a special event or to a special gathering and you want them to look really good try getting a fancy dog collar and leash. For small dogs a simple flat collar will suffice. For larger dogs you might try a prong collar a wide leather band.
The dog collar market is swamped with conventional as well as more unusual types of dog collars. These serve a variety of functions and needs. As a pet lover and canine owner, you should know that different kinds of dogs need different types of collars.
What Type Of Dog Collar Are There?
Buckle Collars are pretty much just what they sound like, collars that are fastened with a buckle. They are typically made of leather or nylon and they are either flat or rolled. Buckle collars are usually adjustable and do not tighten on your pet’s neck once fastened. Using a rolled leather collar avoids the chafing or hair breaking that can occur using flat collars.
Quick Release collars are fundamentally flat nylon buckle collars with a plastic closure. This clip is similar to some luggage strap fasteners and makes getting the collar on and off a little easier.
Choke chains are metal chain links of various sizes with a ring on each. These collars should only be used while actively training or exercising your canine. This type of collar is usually sold by length, so ask for assistance when buying a slip collar.
Head collars go over your pets head but they are not a muzzle. While wearing a head collar, your a hound can still pant, bark, drink and eat, even bite! They should only be used for training.
If you have a very tight lead on a dog, the strap around the muzzle will push into its eyes, and that is as bad as a Halti which pushes into the eyes anyway. While some trainers will use flat buckle type collars, especially on puppies, these collars do not always provide the most useful control for more unruly dogs. For a very aggressive dog, the pinch collar can actually make the animal worse.
What Do I Need To Know About Dog Collars?
You need to ensure that your best friends collar fits well. Badly fitted collars and their incorrect usage may be harmful to your pet and in the worst case it can prove to be fatal. A properly fitted collar has at least a two finger width space between the collar and the neck of the dog but it should not slip over his ears.
If you don’t like the sound of clinking dog tags or if you worry that the metal tags will discolor your pet’s fur, then you can use a special tag pouch, available at most pet stores.
For hunting dogs certain pet tracking systems allow the dog handler or owner to determine what your dog is doing by using certain behavior systems that form part of the collar. You will be able to tell if a pet has stopped, is still moving, if a hound is barking, or if he has treed an animal. Pet tracking collars are used when you are out hunting with your dog. They can be used by houndsmen, upland bird hunters, beaglers, coon hunters, field trial (bird dogs) and hog hunting. Their are also dog training collars made by Tri-tronics, SportDOG, Innotek and Dogtra that offer the dog a electronic correction from a remote transmitter that aid in training a dog off lead.
Finally pick a dog collar that suits your dogs personality and size. A giant black leather collar with studs may not suit a toy poodle, or a pink ribbon style collar a British Bulldog. After all it is part of your pet’s image so pick the correct one!
by Stephen Dolan
Fishing rod holders take the inconvenience out of fishing for a variety of reasons. For one, it is a convenient storage device especially when one is in a kayak. Rather than holding the paddle in between the legs while fishing, a fishing rod holder stores the rod in place therefore enabling anyone to carry multiple rods or (if one insists so) carry multiple paddles. It also makes trolling easy as a holder keeps the fishing rod in place as one travels to a number of fishing spots. Also, when unhooking a caught fish, rod holders keep the rod secure. More importantly, they help one catch more fish at the same time enabling a kayak look versatile and extremely well-designed.
Here are some tips that could prove helpful in order to determine the types of saltwater fishing rods one should purchase.
To attach or to not attach
There are basically two types of fishing rod holders, one that could be attached to the exterior of the kayak and one that is put in the flush. Both have different functions and both work well accordingly. The choice all depends on what one prefers to use and how.
To those who prefer the unattached
The unattached type of fishing rod holder comes in two forms, the straight and the angled. Most kayaks use the angled form. When this type is used, one has a good chance of being able to stroll because the rods veer away from the kayak.
To those who prefer the attached
If the straight type is used, one is able to keep the fishing rod in the middle of the kayak and therefore works best in keeping the rod in storage. This straight type of fishing rod holder is good for the Tower and Cobra Navigator model of a kayak.
The home-made fishing rod holder
One could just as make his or her very own personalized fishing rod holder using common PVC. Or one could also start out by getting a milk crate and attaching it to a kayak with the use of straps.
The alternative type of fishing rod
There is another type of fishing rod holder that could be placed just above the kayak. These are usually tubes that are called RAM as well as Titelock. As the latter’s name implies, it locks the rod in place and usually consists of a male and a female part. This part difference allows the two to be separated.
Today there are a number of manufacturer on the market making quality rods including shimano fishing rods, daiwa fishing rods and penn fishing rods.
by Nicky Pilkington
im 14 and been in hunting since i was a kid but i want to get more serious.any body like any hunters out there got any tips
i am 58 years old … when i was 18 the Wyo, Idaho & Montana elk and deer hunts on USFS lands were extraordinary. today the hunting is better on private lands BUT the exotics: Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goat & Moose are fantastic where anybody doing a little research on the internet can almost be guaranteed a self guided sheep hunt and get a Boone & Crockett sheep. if you learn to research university PHd thesis & Masters papers you can always put in for non-resident areas where if you are successful in drawing the permit you will have an 80% of getting your animal and like i said for sheep and even Montana elk & deer a Boone & Crockett rack. if i were 14 today i would 1st go to every state’s internet site and find out how much it coasts for a non-resident application for elk, sheep, mountain goat, deer, antelope (easy to get an antelope license but the areas are usually crowded with hunters and the experience is not as great as elk or bighorn sheep hunts) and lastly moose … and then start building an application fund and applying for neighboring states as well as my own state. in some states like Montana if a man gets a non-resident license for elk his son or daughter under 16 can buy an elk license without worrying about the non-res quota.
Deer Hunting—WWW.HUNTINGFOOTAGE.COM –Rattled Up Rutting Buck
See thousands more hunting videos at HUNTINGFOOTAGE.COM!!!!
deer hunting deer hunting deer hunting deer hunting deer hunting deer hunting buck buck buck buck buck
Duration : 0:5:20
09-10 waterfowl season on the chesapeake bay in reedville, virginia
Duration : 0:3:22
Attack of the killer carp? It’s true; these fish actually jump out of the water and attack people. My mom sent me this video, which was on the CBS Evening News (she works there), and it’s absolutely hilarious.
Duration : 0:2:19
took the day off to hunt with winnie. Shot this video of winnie tracking, pointing, flushing and retrieving a pheasant. Rare shot of bird about to flush from cover
Duration : 0:3:50
Game management has been given proper credit for reestablishing the deer herds, but it is actually the deer themselves that should be credited for changing their habits to adapt to our civilization. Soybeans are not exactly the native forest environment of deer.
Deer love soybeans. Soybeans are a particularly good food source for nursing does because they enhance rich milk production. The excellent protein of the soybean produces fat little bucks. Deer can be spotted at night in soybean fields in prolific numbers in areas of successful repopulation. Soybean fields are a great place to scout in order to estimate deer numbers or to select a particular specimen. Simply shop for deer from the convenience of your automobile by using a spotlight. This is generally legal providing the spotlighters do not shoot the deer, an action which is illegal everywhere. Some states allow no spotlighting at all. The individual law may state that it is legal only if no firearms or other devices for taking game are in or on the vehicle. In some instances, local laws do not even allow a scouter to shine his headlights over a field and will prosecute for “harassing wildlife.” Check with officials before attempting to spotlight a bean field. Never use your vehicle to chase or harass deer.
Red lights are less alarming to deer. The kind that plug into a cigarette lighter are the most popular. White lights will do quite well, however, and will show up antlers instead of just eyes.
Soybean foraging by deer is a growing concern for farmers. Small numbers of deer cause no major crop damage, as the deer selectively nibble a little here and there. But in areas of high population density, deer congregate to socialize as well as to dine and become a nuisance. Often bean farmers welcome hunters with outstretched arms until the hunters destroy more beans than the deer do. Hunters often show little or no consideration for crops by driving through crops or dragging deer through them.
The fallow fields are primarily hunted during early season, which is generally bow season. Mid-October is the usual harvest time in most areas. After the beans are harvested, the deer will move into other areas in search of other food supplies. It is usually true that acorns become the new primary food. Sometimes beans are harvested early enough that a good number of soybeans which fell away from the harvester root and sprout. This new growth is prime deer forage and suitable hunting ground for later hunters.
In shooting deer in the soybean fields, the hunter must take care not to damage the beans. Deer must be carefully carried out and not dragged.
Deer are most destructive to soybeans when they are first sprouting from the soil in the spring. This is the only time that deer will consume the whole plant. This is not often a problem, however, since the woods and fallow fields are also producing new growth at this time.
Later in the season deer merely eat small parts of a plant here and there. They do not uproot plants or take them to the ground. Groundhogs (woodchucks) do a lot of the damage to soybean fields that is attributed to the track-leaving deer.
Farmers sometimes get upset when they spot a couple of deer out in their beans. Such farmers can have their crops inspected by conservation officers and biologists upon request. Farmers are issued special hunting permits which allow for some departures from the regular laws of the harvest. These permits are often handed out by the farmer to hunters who might assist him in reducing the number of deer in his area. These permits are usually for does only, since does do the reproducing. Bucks are to be left for regular hunters.
Sometimes the farmer may be allowed to sell these permits to recoup some of his income. For foodfare these animals are of the finest quality. Those who complain of “wild-tasting” venison (providing that the wild taste is not the result of poor cleaning methods) should consider hunting beanfield raised deer.
To find out just who has these special permits allowing hunters to take more than the regular number of deer, the hunter might check with the game warden, the feed and seed store, or the local agricultural office, co-op, or other farmer-related places.
For beanfield hunting during gun season, a flat-shooting, long-range rifle with a scope is recommended. A field that is barren of deer upon first observation might at any time have deer all over it suddenly appearing which had been bedded down out of sight in the shallow cover of the bean plants. Scope out the field for antlers.
Albie Berk
http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/do-deer-love-soybeans-700903.html
For the very best experiences when you bow hunt, you need to pay special attention to the weight of the arrows you wish to use as well as how stiff the shaft should be in order to work the best with the draw weight and the length of the arrows you are using. It isn’t always a good idea to use the lightest and fastest arrows available because they can actually cause damage to your bow. Light arrows and heavy arrows generally absorb the same amount of energy from the bow but lighter arrows result in the bow vibrating much more, which can result in damage to it.
The Archery Manufacturer’s Organization, known as AMO recommends the standard minimum weight for an arrow to be six grains for each pound of the bow’s maximum draw weight. According to this calculation 360 grain arrows should be used with a 60 pound bow. Keep in mind that heavy hunting arrows weigh approximately 8 – 10 grains per pound. If you want more speed then use lighter arrows of only 5 grains per pound, but don’t use anything lighter than that.
The stiffness of the shaft is very important because of the pull and release methods used when the arrows leave the bow. Finger release arrows offer oscillations that are called paradox that begin the moment the string leaves your fingers. This is why you have to bend the shaft of the arrow at precisely the right moment in order to get it to pass the bow without hitting the riser. To get the best flight for your arrows, the shafts have to be a good match for your bow and for your personal style of releasing them. Mechanical release bows contain less flex with most of it being up and down movements. This will allow you to be able to use a wider range of arrows with different shaft stiffness and still have it fly well. For more info see http://www.deerelkhunting.com/locations/Hunting-Wyoming.html
Another important issue that you need to consider is point weight because it relates to the stiffness of the arrows, especially if you are using a bow where the arrow is released with your fingers. Make sure you determine the broad head weight you will need for what you are hunting before you buy any arrows. It is also a good idea to practice with field object that are going to be of a similar weight.
If you are going to hunt whitetail deer then chances are you will be shooting from approximately 20 yards away. Most medium weight arrows can handle this distance without any trouble. Remember that heavier arrows require you to be more accurate but the shot will be quieter as well as penetrate the animal deeper. Lightweight arrows are perfect for practicing, but they are best left unused unless you have excellent vision and normally hunt at a distance of 25 yards or more. Choosing the right arrows for bow hunting involves looking at your style, the type of bow you use, and trying out various types of arrows to find those that work best for you.
Amanda Fain
http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/right-on-target-find-the-right-bow-128701.html