Basic Bird Dog Training Commands and Tips

genglish on January 13th, 2010

It often surprises us when we see well trained bird dogs in action. Obeying the commands of their owners, bird dogs do their work in an exemplary manner. We often wonder how bird dog training can produce such results, getting the dogs to be so cooperative without the use of shock collars

If you put a lot of work in it, it can be done.

There are a number of dog breeds that are well suited for becoming great bird dogs. A good start would be teaching them to obey your commands. Before dogs can understand what people are telling them, they need to learn the language first. In this basic variant of training, dogs need to understand the three main commands: “come!”, “whoa!” and “heel!”. These commands need to be mastered by the owner as well.

The “Whoa!” Command

The “whoa!” command is the first thing bird dogs need to learn. By learning this, they can understand when they’re being told to stop, without moving again unless he’s being ordered to do it. Obeying this command shows that the dog respects his master and that he is obedient. If you want to test whether a dog is completely obedient, you should try giving the “whoa!” order at larger distances. This way you’re sure that he will listen to you even when the command is not enforced by the immediate presence of the master.

You can also use the “whoa!” command to control dogs that get out of hand, trying to flush a bird on their own or play with it. If their master wants the dog to stop what he’s doing, he can use this command to make him stop. Ideally, the command and the obedience should be rewarded by the master.

The “Come!” Command

The purpose of the “come!” command is to make the dog come to the owner when they hear it. It’s quite easy to use this command. In the case of a bird dog, it’s much easier to make him come to you with the thing he retrieved, if he understands this command. A lot of dogs are more independent and go do their own thing. Using the “come!” command you can keep him at a good distance from you.

The “Heel!” Command

When you want to make sure that your dog will walk by your side, and not wander away, the “heel!” command can be used to get this effect. You can teach him an additional command, like “go” or “okay” to let him know that he is released, and can return to hunting with you.

Whenever the dog performed well, never fail to give him a tap, a treat or a praise to acknowledge his performance. Fine dogs are born with the instinct to please their owners. If you can let your dog see that he is pleasing you with his performance and you want him to repeat it, the best thing you can do is to reward him. Overtime, he will learn to repeat the same desirable action so long as you allow him to.

Each time the dog does what you ask of him, make sure you reward him either with a treat, a tap or a praise, to let him know that he did well. The best dogs are those that have an instinct when it comes to pleasing their masters. You should let the dog know that you are pleased with what he’s doing, and that he should do the same in the future. The best way you can let him know is by rewarding him.

Doing bird dog training is quite hard. If it was easy, you would see a lot more bird dogs around. Still, if you want to make a good bird hunter out of your dog, make sure you invest the patience and the time needed to teach him the three commands that stand at the basis of bird dog training.  The use of a electronic dog collar can help if used properly and with care.  I prefer the DT Systems brand of collars.

by Sam Nichols

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Dog Collars – What you Need to Know

genglish on January 13th, 2010

Dog collars come in a variety of materials, colors, styles and even functions. There’s the obedience or choke collar, bark collars, dog training collars,  flea collars, and a whole array of just good old plain pooch collars. So which one do you choose? If you are taking your pooch to a special event or to a special gathering and you want them to look really good try getting a fancy dog collar and leash. For small dogs a simple flat collar will suffice. For larger dogs you might try a prong collar a wide leather band.

The dog collar market is swamped with conventional as well as more unusual types of dog collars. These serve a variety of functions and needs. As a pet lover and canine owner, you should know that different kinds of dogs need different types of collars.

What Type Of Dog Collar Are There?

Buckle Collars are pretty much just what they sound like, collars that are fastened with a buckle. They are typically made of leather or nylon and they are either flat or rolled. Buckle collars are usually adjustable and do not tighten on your pet’s neck once fastened. Using a rolled leather collar avoids the chafing or hair breaking that can occur using flat collars.

Quick Release collars are fundamentally flat nylon buckle collars with a plastic closure. This clip is similar to some luggage strap fasteners and makes getting the collar on and off a little easier.

Choke chains are metal chain links of various sizes with a ring on each. These collars should only be used while actively training or exercising your canine. This type of collar is usually sold by length, so ask for assistance when buying a slip collar.

Head collars go over your pets head but they are not a muzzle. While wearing a head collar, your a hound can still pant, bark, drink and eat, even bite! They should only be used for training.

If you have a very tight lead on a dog, the strap around the muzzle will push into its eyes, and that is as bad as a Halti which pushes into the eyes anyway. While some trainers will use flat buckle type collars, especially on puppies, these collars do not always provide the most useful control for more unruly dogs. For a very aggressive dog, the pinch collar can actually make the animal worse.

What Do I Need To Know About Dog Collars?

You need to ensure that your best friends collar fits well. Badly fitted collars and their incorrect usage may be harmful to your pet and in the worst case it can prove to be fatal. A properly fitted collar has at least a two finger width space between the collar and the neck of the dog but it should not slip over his ears.

If you don’t like the sound of clinking dog tags or if you worry that the metal tags will discolor your pet’s fur, then you can use a special tag pouch, available at most pet stores.

For hunting dogs certain pet tracking systems allow the dog handler or owner to determine what your dog is doing by using certain behavior systems that form part of the collar. You will be able to tell if a pet has stopped, is still moving, if a hound is barking, or if he has treed an animal. Pet tracking collars are used when you are out hunting with your dog. They can be used by houndsmen, upland bird hunters, beaglers, coon hunters, field trial (bird dogs) and hog hunting.  Their are also dog training collars made by Tri-tronics, SportDOG, Innotek and Dogtra that offer the dog a electronic correction from a remote transmitter that aid in training a dog off lead. 

Finally pick a dog collar that suits your dogs personality and size. A giant black leather collar with studs may not suit a toy poodle, or a pink ribbon style collar a British Bulldog. After all it is part of your pet’s image so pick the correct one!

by Stephen Dolan

Ground Blind Hunting

on May 17th, 2012

Tips and tricks on how to hunt public land with a ground blind

Duration : 2 min 41 sec

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Will Hunting had it right 14 years ago

Duration : 2 min 40 sec

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Any useful rabbit hunting tips?

genglish on February 17th, 2012

I have been hunting some land that I am not very experienced hunting, I am finding tracks all over the place but I fail to find any rabbits… they seem to be invisible.

There is snow on the ground, so tracking is relatively easy, I just can’t find any rabbits.

Any tips/tricks that anyone has for locating said rabbits would be welcome.
Chase: That’s the thing, I can find tracks everywhere; but I have found very little feces.
@balletluvr: Good advise.

Find the thickest brush you can. Look for droppings around this area. If you see a lot of droppings in a thick area, its an area they spend a lot of time in. Then go around the thick brush pile. They tend to run out of it and then you shoot them running.

EDIT- Maybe you should try stand hunting over the area you see a lot of tracks.

I would like to know what some tactics are for late season deer hunting, what calls to use or none at all, where to hunt such as fields, ridges, saddles, creek bottoms, islands where deer cross water, fingers of woods leading out to fields or just woods in the middle of where deer bed and feed where there are tracks everywhere.

In Late season deer hunting most call probably wont be effective. In late season most deer are looking for food or water not mates or rivals, grunt calls may work because all male deer or territorial and will investigate an intruding male. Your best bet is to hunt a food plot or field or the paths leading to them. in the early morning or late afternoon.

How to Hunt Whitetail

genglish on February 8th, 2012

The Secrets to Locate Pattern and Harvest Monster Bucks Anywhere in the Country… GUARANTEED

http://www.thewhitetailblueprint.com/

Duration : 59 sec

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This lightweight, ultra rugged, ergonomic handheld HID Magnalight spotlight operates for 2.5 consecutive hours via a lithium-ion battery that takes approximately 4 hours to charge. The light can be used as a spot or flood light by simply adjusting the lens. This Magnalight spotlight ships with a 120VAC wall plug-in charger and long life 35 Watt High Intensity Discharge (HID) bulb. The unique reflector and lens configuration produces a 2800 foot beam in spotlight mode, giving it a 15 million retail candlepower rating. Backed by a 3 year warranty, our new Magnalight rechargeable handheld spotlight is ideal for work, security, hunting and spotting.

Duration : 13 sec

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coyote hunting tips for a new guy?

genglish on January 24th, 2012

I am brand new to coyote hunting. Where I live there are not a lot of wide open spaces although there are a few. I didn’t want to go all out so I bought a Johnny stewart electronic call that has a few sounds. I did buy a mojo critter. I can only hunt days due to my work schedule. I have been a couple times but am having no luck. One more thing, would a ground blind help? Any tips would be appreciated. The coyotes here are devastating to our deer population.

Jake got started on the right track: use cover scents,know the wind and use it to your advantage,and control how the coyotes can approach-they normally want to hear,smell and see something as prey,so you can use at least 2 of those to your advantage with calls and a lure,not all places allow baiting so you need to find out. You need to separate the call from the shooter by a decent distance when possible so the coyote doesn’t see the shooter as it homes in on the noise/lure,somewhere around 50-60 yards is normally plenty.
Use terrain/local camo to your advantage-with wind direction you can help channel a response by keeping terrain behind you so a coyote can’t circle around to smell you,make sure you blend into the background. Many coyote hunters use a crosswind set up,so the coyotes tend to approach laterally instead of heads up,so you may research how to make coyote set-ups better,there are some articles in shooting/sport magazines and you might find some info online.

Papillon Wild Kingdom- Hilde on the stalk

genglish on January 23rd, 2012

It had been too painful for me to upload pix and vid from our June trip home, since Hilde got run over by a car there and died, but now enough time has passed, and this is a fun video, and a fitting tribute to her indefatigable spirit.

Duration : 2 min 4 sec

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